Kohonawala village is located just beyond the Passara Madulsima mountain range in the Uva province, Badulla District. With its breathtaking views, Kohonawala resembles a fairy tale village. It only receives sunlight for six hours (per day), from 9.00 am to 3.00 pm.
Introduction
Nicknamed “Ira payana nathi gama,” the village where the sun does not rise has neither water, electricity, nor a proper roadway.
The villagers claim that the history of Kohonawala, which is woven into several legends, dates back to the time of King Walagamba. Konara, a minister of the king, came to this village after the war was defeated, and his descendants are known as Ranpath Mudiyanselage.
History of Kohonawala Village
Another folklore is that the indigenous people of Sri Lanka, known as the “Veddhas,” once lived in this village a long time ago. The leader of the Veddhas was good at archery, and so he won a contest of shooting an arrow through a golden ring. This gave his clan the name ‘Ranpath Mudiyanselage’, which is the surname of every person in Kohanawala to date.
The warriors who assisted in the combat during the revolt in 1818, the Ranpathmudiyanse, are therefore buried in this hamlet. Two villagers fled the Uva Wellassa revolt in 1818 to avoid the Englishmen. After some time, this man and his wife had children, and they became a family. There are many people in the village, but the most believable one is the one who has similar characteristics to everyone else and is identical to them in many other ways.
The historical accounts shared above are based on oral traditions and stories passed down within the village. Like many remote communities in Sri Lanka, written records are limited.
Journey to Kohonawala Village
Kohonawala can only be reached on foot. It takes at least six hours to walk the 12 km route one way, making it a taxing excursion. Therefore, because the whole trip takes a day, it is preferable to start early. However, the breathtaking views along the hamlet’s road are worthwhile. The people who live in the village have lovely, independent lives. Semi-farming and crop cultivation provide a living for all 45 households in the community.
Unending views of the Loggal Oya (stream) and rice fields tended by locals may be viewed along the route to the hamlet as it passes past tea gardens. There is a short, zigzag trail with several challenging climbs that locals refer to as “padi deseeya” (Sinhala for “two hundred stairs”). Following it, the trail passes through a mana patch with breathtaking 180-degree vistas.
The rocks are slick in certain spots. But every week at least, peasants as young as 90 or older trek to Madolsima to sell their harvests by walking the hard trip. Farmers make up Kohonawala’s population. They live in harmony. These villagers occasionally have to take a bus to Passara to purchase various necessities after selling their harvests at Madolsima, located around 20 km from Kohonawala. They had been doing this every day since they were young.
Life at Kohonawala Village
These people’s primary sources of income include the production of rice, pepper, vegetables, and fruits. Because they have few basic needs and wants, and because items like coconuts, fish, and newspapers are scarce, they are self-sufficient in many ways.
Since the Kohonawala School only offers lessons up to grade 5, students must transfer to Kahataruppa or Madulsima Schools to continue their education. This requires an 18 km journey every day. As a result, the majority of children drop out of school around age 10 and continue to assist their parents.
What Travelers Rarely Understand About Kohonawala
Unlike most “remote villages” described online, Kohonawala’s isolation is not symbolic—it is practical and daily. Time here is not measured by clocks or schedules but by daylight, weather, and physical endurance. Locals plan activities strictly around the six-hour window of sunlight, which quietly shapes everything from farming to school routines.
Visitors often assume that the lack of infrastructure is a hardship story. In reality, many villagers describe it as a trade-off: distance from services in exchange for silence, clean air, and a predictable rhythm of life. Understanding this mindset helps travelers avoid romanticizing or pitying the community—both of which locals find uncomfortable.
Visiting Kohonawala Responsibly
Kohonawala is not accustomed to tourism in the way Ella or Haputale are. Visitors are noticed immediately.
What locals appreciate:
- Asking permission before photographing people or homes
- Greeting elders first when entering the village paths
- Carrying back your own waste (there is no collection system)
What quietly causes tension:
- Flying drones without consent
- Treating homes as “photo props”
- Offering money to children for photos
A respectful visit here is not about spending money—it’s about behavior.
Staying Overnight: What You Should Realistically Expect
There are no formal homestays or guesthouses in Kohonawala village itself. Occasionally, travelers are invited to stay with families, but this should never be assumed or requested casually.
If you are offered shelter:
- Expect floor sleeping (mat or woven bed)
- No attached bathrooms
- Meals based on what is available that day
This is not a “cultural experience package.” It is everyday life. Travelers who understand this tend to leave with deeper respect rather than disappointment.
Food in Kohonawala: Simple, Seasonal, Sufficient
Meals in Kohonawala depend entirely on harvest cycles. Rice, pumpkin, leafy greens, and pepper are common. Coconut is rare, which surprises many Sri Lankans.
Food is prepared without excess oil or spice—not for tourists, but because ingredients are valued and stretched carefully. Travelers often describe the meals as “plain,” but many later realize how filling and grounding they are after long treks.
Tip:
If invited to eat, finishing what’s served is considered respectful.
Why Kohonawala Is Not for Everyone (Honest Perspective)
Kohonawala is not ideal for:
- Travelers expecting comfort or scenic cafés
- Influencer-style content creation
- Tight itineraries or casual half-day visits
It is suitable for:
- Slow travelers
- Hikers comfortable with uncertainty
- Locals curious about disappearing rural lifestyles
- Photographers interested in landscape, not people posing
Beauty of Kohonawala Village
When you first witness the splendor of the hamlet in the early morning, it is very amazing; in every direction, all you can see are the mountains and the clear sky. Although some claim that the light rises in this hamlet at 9 am and that the community is then completely enveloped in darkness, the fact is that residents may see the sunrise around 9 am from mountaintops.
How to go to Kohonawala Village
There are two ways to get to this stunningly remote community. One of them hails from Kahataruppa, which is approximately 15.5 kilometers from Badulla Town, and the other from Madulsima, which is about 41 km distant. The first path, the Kahataruppa route, is preferable since it is relatively more straightforward to travel on, particularly when the Loggal Oya is calm and peaceful.
You must traverse the canals, which are particularly challenging during the wet season, to reach Loggal Oya because there is no bridge connecting it to the hamlet. The alternative is a tough, perilous, and treacherous road with hairpin curves lined by Mana plants and surrounded by breathtaking natural beauty. To get to the village, you have to walk for around 5 kilometers, and believe me, it’s not an easy effort.
Vehicles can travel up to Loggal Oya and a short distance into the village. Still, if you want to take a car, it needs to have higher ground clearance and be a 4×4 vehicle, because the road is not level, and it must cross the Loggal Oya, which is approximately 20 meters long and can only be crossed when the water level is low.
Most of the time, tuk-tuks are the only way to get to Loggal Oya, and the trip there is exceedingly harsh and bumpy. As you could occasionally rise 6 to 12 inches from your seat, it’s best to avoid eating before the tuk-tuk ride because you already know what will happen if you do.
Best Time to Visit Kohonawala Village
The best time to visit Kohonawala Village is between December and April, when the weather is pleasant and the views are clear. The monsoon season (May to October) brings heavy rainfall, which can make some routes challenging to navigate.
FAQ
1. Why is Kohonawala Village called the “village where the sun does not rise”?
Kohonawala is surrounded by steep mountains, which block direct sunlight during early morning and late afternoon. As a result, the village receives direct sunlight only for a few hours a day, usually between around 9.00 am and 3.00 pm. This natural geography—not weather—is the reason behind the nickname.
2. Can tourists visit Kohonawala Village without a guide?
Yes, but it is not recommended for first-time visitors. The footpaths are long, steep, and poorly marked in some sections. Weather changes can also make routes risky. Travelers unfamiliar with the area are strongly advised to go with a local guide or someone who knows the terrain well.
3. How long does it take to reach Kohonawala Village on foot?
Depending on the route and walking pace, reaching Kohonawala usually takes between 5 to 6 hours one way. The journey involves steep climbs, river crossings, and narrow trails, making it a full-day hike rather than a short excursion.
4. Is Kohonawala Village suitable for elderly travelers or children?
No. Due to the long walking distance, uneven terrain, and lack of medical facilities, Kohonawala is not suitable for elderly travelers, young children, or anyone with mobility issues.
5. Are there places to stay overnight in Kohonawala Village?
There are no formal guesthouses or registered homestays in Kohonawala. Overnight stays are only possible if a local family personally invites a visitor, which should never be expected. Most travelers visit the village as a day trip.
6. Do villagers in Kohonawala have electricity and running water?
Kohonawala has very limited access to modern infrastructure. Electricity and piped water are not consistently available, and daily life depends largely on natural resources and daylight hours.
7. What should visitors bring when visiting Kohonawala Village?
Visitors should carry sufficient drinking water, food, basic first-aid supplies, proper hiking footwear, and weather protection. Mobile network coverage is unreliable, so offline maps and emergency planning are essential.
8. Is photography allowed in Kohonawala Village?
Landscape photography is generally fine, but visitors should always ask permission before photographing villagers, homes, or farming activities. The community values privacy, and respectful behavior is appreciated.
9. What is the best time of day to visit Kohonawala Village?
Mid-morning to early afternoon is the best time, as this is when the village receives sunlight. Arriving too early or leaving too late can make navigation difficult due to shadows and reduced visibility.
10. Is Kohonawala Village safe to visit?
Kohonawala itself is safe, and the villagers are welcoming. However, the main risks come from the journey—long walking distances, slippery paths during rain, and river crossings. Proper preparation is essential.
11. Why do many children stop schooling early in Kohonawala Village?
Schools within the village only offer education up to primary level. Continuing education requires long daily travel to nearby towns, which is physically demanding and difficult for many families, leading some children to leave school early.
12. Is Kohonawala Village worth visiting compared to popular places like Ella?
Kohonawala offers a very different experience. Unlike Ella, it has no tourist facilities, viewpoints with cafés, or easy access. It is best suited for travelers seeking raw landscapes, physical challenge, and insight into isolated rural life.
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Final Thoughts
Kohonawala Village in Madolsima, Sri Lanka, is an untouched paradise that offers a unique blend of adventure, culture, and natural beauty. Whether you’re an explorer looking for a scenic trek, a photographer chasing breathtaking landscapes, or a traveler seeking tranquility away from busy city life, Kohonawala promises an unforgettable experience. If you’re planning your next Sri Lankan adventure, for travelers who value effort, patience, and genuine rural encounters, Kohonawala offers a perspective that is increasingly rare in Sri Lanka
If you’ve visited Kohonawala Village, feel free to share your experience in the comments below and inspire other travelers to discover this incredible destination.
By Tour My Lanka Editorial Team
– promoting sustainable and authentic travel across Sri Lanka.
Last Updated: Januart 2026
Images in this article are for illustration purposes and sourced from royalty-free platforms such as Pixabay and Unsplash.
